Yesterday Amy and I and friend from church Matt went to the beach I mentioned in the last post Camaronal. All and all things went pretty well. The waves were powerful but tamer than we had imagined. I was satisfied with a few good rides and a sense of accomplishment.
Matt and I decided to come back first thing this morning to give it another go. Today was much more powerful and I ocean was much rougher. I spent the first hour and a half getting my overdue beating. The first two waves I caught a little late. I literally felt like I stepped off the roof of a house followed by massive amounts of pounding water holding me down. I was beyond thankful when I reached the surface looking for air. At one point I ended up in a section of waves that was like being in a washing machine. I paddled and paddled for what felt like a week and I don't think I moved an inch. I finally decided to head to shore and take a breather. At this point I was exhausted and hadn't ridden any waves. We had to leave in 45 minutes so I decided to get back out there and attempt to justify getting out of bed.
It is amazing how one ride (even a non impressive ride) can make you forget about being exhausted and leave you grinning ear to ear. I only rode two waves this morning but for today that was enough.
I have never considered my self a really good surfer but hopefully before this year is over I will at least feel like Ive made some big improvements.
This afternoon we went to the home of a family from the kids school. They live 15 minutes out of town in what feels like the middle of nowhere. They are on a large piece of land way up on a hill surrounded by jungle with incredible views. What a cool place. The kids spent most of the afternoon swimming while Amy and I talked with new friends.
What can I say other than Life is Good. We are thankful to be here.
Hi Guys,
ReplyDeleteI just wanted you to know that I really enjoy reading your posts and for moments pretending I live somewhere, anywhere other than in the middle of suburbia. The house is asleep and I can hear the hum of the freeway, oh dear. We are all well, and settling into being new at the Rock, Tim (my husband) has even helped John Styles with the latest building project. I am just super busy in school, hoping to make it out alive this quarter, it is good as it has taught me to depend on God in a new way. Keep the writing up, you are inspiring me to really connect with my kids, even though it is while we are shoving our breakfast down and driving to school.
Your new friend,
Tresie